590 3590 Mars Red Fire Opal Mercedes Touch Up Paint & Repair Kit

Mercedes-Benz Mars Red Touch-Up Paint – 590 / 3590

Mars Red is Mercedes-Benz paint code 590, also written 3590, a solid non-metallic red that Mercedes also sold as Fire Opal — Feueropal in German — over the same code. Each bottle holds 0.41 fl oz of exact-match paint for rock chips, door-edge scratches and small blemishes. Choose the paint on its own, or the complete repair kit — the kit adds body putty, a spatula, a sanding pad and four sheets of sandpaper, and gives a flatter, cleaner result than paint alone.

Confirm Your Paint Code First

The paint code is printed on a sticker, most often on the driver-side door jamb, and on many cars also under the hood. This paint is 590 — the sticker should read 590 or 3590.

The name is where people get caught out, not the number. Mercedes recorded this same code as Mars Red at the start and end of its run and as Fire Opal through the middle years, with Feueropal on German paperwork, so your documents, your dealer and your door jamb may not all use the same word. The number is the part that does not move.

Worth reading it properly rather than going by eye. On a solid non-metallic finish there is no metallic flake to hide the edge of a repair, so a near-miss shows badly. Thirty seconds at the door jamb beats a repair you have to sand back off.

One thing specific to red. Solid reds give up more to sunlight than any other pigment family, so on a car that has spent fifteen years outside the roof and trunk lid may have drifted further than the doors. The paint is mixed to the factory code and is correct by definition — it is the panel that has moved. Test on a low, out-of-sight edge before you touch the hood.

What’s Included

Specifications

Which Mercedes Use Mars Red

Code 590 is a solid red Mercedes used from the mid-2000s until around 2017. Unlike the whites and silvers it never went right across the range — it tracked the sedans, coupes, roadsters and the AMG cars rather than the vans or the full SUV lineup.

The name changed partway through that run. Earlier and later cars are recorded as Mars Red, the middle years are usually written Fire Opal, and German paperwork says Feueropal. Same code, same paint.

We do not publish a year-by-year model table on paint. Sources disagree about exactly which model years carried 590, and a wrong year here does not cost you a returned part — it costs you a repair you have to sand back off. The door jamb sticker settles it: if it reads 590 or 3590, this is your colour.

How to Apply

With the paint alone

1. Wash and dry the area. Car soap and water, rinsed, then dried completely. Paint will not bond through road film.
2. Clean inside the chip. Wipe it with isopropyl alcohol or a wax and grease remover on a lint-free cloth. Wax and polish collect in the bottom of a chip where washing never reaches, and that residue is the most common reason a touch-up lifts months later. Let the solvent flash off completely before going further.
3. Pick away loose edges. If paint is flaking around the rim, lift it with a toothpick. Paint over a loose edge and the repair fails at that edge.
4. Shake until you hear the mixing ball move. Thirty seconds is usually enough. Then twist the cap open and work the first paint out onto a piece of card until the brush flows evenly. Never load the brush over the car — the first stroke usually floods.
5. Dab, don’t drag. Touch the brush to the centre of the chip and let the paint flow outward on its own. Dragging it like a marker leaves ridges and pulls color onto the good paint around the chip. On very small chips, transfer a bead onto a toothpick and place it instead.
6. Build thin layers, stopping just below flush. Several thin coats beat one thick one. Finish a fraction below the surrounding surface rather than above it — a shallow dip catches far less light than a raised blob, and the blob is what makes a repair obvious from ten feet away.
7. Leave at least 4 hours between coats.

Work in shade on a cool panel, ideally between 50°F and 90°F and out of direct sun. Hot metal flashes the solvent off too fast and leaves a rough, textured edge.

With the complete kit — for the best finish

1. Wash and dry the area, then clean it with isopropyl alcohol or wax and grease remover.
2. Sand the damage back with the coarser sandpaper to remove loose paint and feather the edges.
3. Press body putty into the low spot with the spatula rather than piling it on top. Let it set.
4. Sand level, finishing with the pad so the repair sits flush. Check by running a fingertip across it — your finger finds a step your eye misses.
5. Clean the area again and let it dry completely.
6. Shake until you hear the mixing ball move, work the brush out on card, then dab color into the repair in thin coats.
7. Leave at least 4 hours between coats.

Drying & Curing

• Touch dry in roughly 30 minutes
• At least 4 hours between coats
• Leave 24 hours before washing the car
• No wax, polish or automatic car wash for about 30 days while the paint hardens fully

Typical for solvent-based touch-up paint. Cold or humid conditions extend all of it.

Shipping & Returns

• Free shipping.
• Ships within 1 business day.
• 30-day returns on unused, unopened items.